You'll find mainly 2 types of batteries in esk8 builds: Lithium Polymer (or LiPo) and Lithium Ion (or Li-ion). See this interesting forum post or that one with lots of explanation between the two.
In most of the electric skateboards on the market, the battery used is lithium-ion, coupled with some electronics so you don't have to pay attention to what you're doing. Plug it, charge it, use it, charge it again. But if you dig a bit more, you'll understand why it's not that easy, especially when building your own esk8.
So let's dig a bit deeper and see how we choose a battery.
First, the idea is to get the nicest power output (watts or W) possible (not too low, but no need to go crazy, we're not building a race car). 1W = 1V x 1A. To get more watts, we have to increase the voltage, the current or both. Increasing the current will generate higher temperatures, which is not the best (especially in electronics as they are really sensible to that). So increasing the voltage is better. But we can't go to super high either, electric motors and electronic speed controllers (ESC) also have limits. The goal is to find a nice balance between all the components.
The usual esk8 don’t go over 12S batteries (~50V) because either the ESC or motor can’t handle more than that. But there are exceptions.
When we say "Li-ion" battery, what we mean is "a battery composed of li-ion cells". One li-ion cell might be enough to power a small LED lamp, but we need way more than that to power an electric skateboard.
Li-ion battery cells come in various shapes and sizes. We'll focus on the most used for esk8: the 18650 cell.
The 18650 name comes from the size of the cell: 18mm x 65mm. It's like a bigger AA battery (an AA battery is 14mm x 50 mm).
They are very common, you can find them in old laptop batteries or even in Tesla cars. They are made by different manufacturers and their characteristics greatly varies depending on the manufacturer and/or model.
Depending on your needs, li-ions can be considered better than lipos. They have a better lifespan (more charge/discharge cycles before going bad). They are also safer, thanks to some protection mechanisms (see this blog post) and also because of their metal enclosure (less prone to be pierced or damaged by external elements). Li-ion cells are also better at sitting for a long period of time (lipos also can stay stored for a long period, but they need to be stored at the right voltage to keep them in good shape). All those advantages make them a good choice for mainstream products.
Although the price per cell might look attractive, you need quite a bunch to get a decent battery for an esk8, and you still need to assemble the cells using nickel strips and a spot-weld them in place. In the end, lipos are still the cheapest option. You can buy pre-built packs too, but prices are way higher than lipos at this point.
The voltage of a li-ion cell goes up during charge and goes down during discharge. A li-ion cell nominal voltage is 3.6 volts. A fully charged cell is 4.2V. A discharged cell can go as low as 2.5V, but you should not get them that low, try to stay above 2.8V. Going below might damage your cells or get bad voltage sag while riding. Li-ion cells are made differently depending on the manufacturer, and each can have different characteristics so be sure to check those out before referring to this table.
Battery
Nominal V
Full charge
Minimum V
Recommended min. V
1S Li-ion Battery
3.6V
4.2V
2.5V
2.8V
2S Li-ion Battery
7.2V
8.4V
5.0V
5.6V
3S Li-ion Battery
10.8V
12.6V
7.5V
8.4V
4S Li-ion Battery
14.4V
16.8V
10V
11.2V
5S Li-ion Battery
18V
18.5V
12.5V
14V
6S Li-ion Battery
21.6V
25.2V
15.0V
16.8V
7S Li-ion Battery
25.2V
29.4V
17.5V
19.6V
8S Li-ion Battery
28.8V
33.6V
20.0V
22.4V
9S Li-ion Battery
32.4V
37.8V
22.5V
25.2V
10S Li-ion Battery
36.0V
42.0V
25.0V
28.0V
11S Li-ion Battery
39.6V
46.2V
27.5V
30.8V
12S Li-ion Battery
43.2V
50.4V
30.0V
33.6V
Li-ions don't have a C rating like lipos do, but they have a continuous discharge rating, measured in amps. Again, that characteristic depends on the manufacturer. Don't believe anything you see, cheap manufacturers often indicates fake CDR to attract customers.
The capacity means how much energy you can store in
the battery, often stated in mAh (milli amp hours) or Ah. 18650 cells are all the same format, so you won't see huge capacity difference between a model and another. Capacities range from 1800mAh to around 3500mAh.
If you want to know more about the different 18650 models on the market, this site contains charts for dozens of brands and models and allows you to compare them.
If you want to use li-ion cells for your setup, you have 2 options:
buy cells separately and assemble the battery pack yourself
buy a pack already assembled
Here’s a topic on a 10S 18650 cells battery build.
A 5S LiPo battery pack, containing 5 cells in series
Just like a li-ion battery, when we talk about a lipo battery, we talk about a battery composed of lipo cells, for the same reason. A single lipo cell won't move you anywhere, you need several of them.
LiPo batteries are the cheapest and easiest to use in an electric skate build. They are manufactured in large number as they are used in multiple products, keeping the price low and competitive. They also are plug-and-play (or almost), you can easily find batteries with XT60 or XT90 plugs.
They are fragile though. Each cell is a little pouch that can easily be pierced with a pointy object like a nail. If not protected properly, they can be damaged by external elements and caught on fire. Also, overcharging them can make them explode. Over discharge also damages them, not dangerously, they will just hold less power and/or turn bad.
If not stored properly (meaning stored while being fully charged or stored in a hot place), the cells can get over inflated and at this point, you'd better discharge them safely and throw them away.
They will last only for 200-300 charge cycles, although it depends on the battery quality and how you treat them.
When looking to a LiPo battery, you have to check for its characteristics: the voltage (volts), the capacity (mAh), the number of cells (1S, 2S, 3S, 4S…) and the C rating.
The voltage of a LiPo cell goes up and down during charge and discharge. A LiPo cell nominal voltage is 3.7 volts. The minimum voltage for a LiPo cell is 3.0V but it’s not recommended to get them that low, you should try to keep them to 3.4V or 3.3V minimum. A fully charged LiPo cell is 4.2V.
Battery
Nominal V
Full charge
Minimum V
Recommended min. V
1S Lipo Battery
3.7V
4.2V
3.0V
3.3V
2S Lipo Battery
7.4V
8.4V
6.0V
6.6V
3S Lipo Battery
11.1V
12.6V
9.0V
9.9V
4S Lipo Battery
14.8V
16.8V
12.0V
13.2V
5S Lipo Battery
18.5V
21V
15.0V
16.5V
6S Lipo Battery
22.2V
25.2V
18.0V
19.8V
7S Lipo Battery
25.9V
29.4V
21.0V
23.1V
8S Lipo Battery
29.6V
33.6V
24.0V
26.4V
9S Lipo Battery
33.3V
37.8V
27.0V
29.7V
10S Lipo Battery
37.0V
42.0V
30.0V
33.0V
11S Lipo Battery
40.7V
46.2V
33.0V
36.3V
12S Lipo Battery
44.4V
50.4V
36.0V
39.6V
The C rating is the battery output capacity. A
3000mAh (or 3Ah) 20C rated battery means that its output is 20×3 = 60A.
Usually, manufacturers will indicate the general output capacity of the
battery, plus its peak output capacity (output available for a few
seconds). The C ratings are almost always over-rated. A 50C
battery is often 35-40C in reality. This is especially true with cheap
batteries and the gap can even be larger.
The capacity means how much energy you can store in
the battery, often stated in mAh (milli amp hours) or Ah. The more you can store, the bigger (in size) the battery
is. Of course, having a big capacity battery means that your esk8 will
have a long range, and the output will be better.